Chanel 2010 Fall Haute Couture

I thought Lagerfeld will never be able to top what he did for the set of Chanel's 2010 Fall Pret-a-Porter collection and I was proven wrong. Lagerfeld placed gigantic golden statue of roaring lion with its paw resting on a pearl bead in the middle of historic Grand Palais in Paris. It was majestic, proud and regal and that was exactly what this season's collection was all about. The show started off with the usual, meticulously tailored Chanel emsembles with amazing cut then moved on to breathtaking masterpiece dresses. The final wedding dress, which looks like a sequined dress to the naked eyes, was actually made of literally millions (Lagerfeld estimated in his interview more than 2 million paillets have been used) of tiny Camilla flower paillets (all hand-sewn). This collection seems to share the inspiration of 2006 Fall Haute Couture collection for Chanel. Many garments resonated strong medieval feel, with its moodier colours and tapestry inspired embroideries, but this collection seemed more mature and even, perhaps, darker. Despite all the sequins, beads, crystals and embroideries, what I felt was amazing restraint and almost militaristic discipline which added to the elegance of the collection.

-Speh-

Full collection in HQ

Images from www.vogue.it

Who is the groom in the lion mask? You guessed it, he is none other than Baptiste Giabiconi (again)

Dior 2010 Fall Haute Couture

I have expressed several times that I have grown fond of Lacroix's coulourful style and that I started to miss his beautiful designs, it seems that John Galliano has been feeling the same way. With more striking colours put together than your eyes can handle, and with the ball gowns puffier than ever, John Galliano crept into the vacant place where now bankrupt master couturier Lacroix used to stand.

The garments looked like garlands of flowers and cellophane wrappings styled as headdresses seems to confirm the inspirations behind this seasons show. A lot of light-weight fabrics such as silk tulle and silk chiffon is used in irregular layers to create volume and imitate the feeling of flower petals. There were a lot of floral prints, as well as experimentations on texture (one dress looked incredibly like crushed walnuts sewn together). Lightness of the collection was emphasised by the extensive use of frayed ends. The whole collection seemed more suitable for Spring but as Lagerfeld has said, when it comes to high fashion, there really is not that much of distinction between Spring and Fall.

I personally really like this collection, my excitement outlasted the immediate buzz which did not happen for Dior for quite sometime and it seems to touch on my latest obsessions. The collection looks natural, care-free, fresh, colourful and beautiful, but most of all joyous, which is, I suspect, John Galliano's intention.

-Seph-

Full Collection in HQ

Images from www.vogue.co.uk

Pre-Haute Couture Reflection

It is that time of the year again, 2010 Fall Haute Couture week will begin on Monday in Paris!

This is the time when most revered luxury fashion houses in the world stage extravagant shows with most beautiful, and expansive clothes money can buy. Haute Couture represents the epitome of imagination, innovation, craftsmanship, elegance and luxury (Only the fashion houses that are certified by the French government can produce Haute Couture garments, and the garments must be hand-made by at least 5 seamstresses/tailors in Paris to be called a Haute Couture piece). Because of its extravagance, its focus on artistic and conceptual interpretations which often lead to ambiguity and impracticality, as well as its astronomical price (price of a Haute Couture garment is kept secret but generally speaking a blouse and a jacket costs around 20 000 American Dollars and embroidered dress costs about 100 000 American Dollars), Haute Couture is often regarded as promoting elitism and its relevancy in modern fashion industry, in which mass-produced garments became a norm for both wealthy and poor (Detailed Haute Couture garment can take up to 1000 hours until its completion) is in debate. There used to be more than 20 000 people involved in this industry right after the World War II and now the number is down to 4000 and it is decreasing. Chanel has been buying most of the ateliers and skilled artisans in Paris to ensure Haute Couture's survival, which is why Chanel's Haute Couture garments show breathtaking craftsmanship and incredible details.

With Lacroix's bankruptcy and Valentino's retirement, I have to admit recent Haute Couture weeks have been somewhat boring (also because of the recession) but we can always rely on Lagerfeld for elegance and Galliano for a drama.

There are about 17 haouses scheduled to show their Haute Couture collection but I personally think that there are only 7 houses that people should look out for.

On Monday 2:30pm in Paris, Dior will show its 2010 Fall Haute Couture collection at Musee Rodin. For two seasons, John Galliano staged Dior's Haute Couture collection at the Dior headquarters, presumably to reduce the cost of its production, but it is good to know there will be something new (at least for the location) this season. I had a dream about Dior Haute Couture collection. I saw a lot of black garments and mantiallas, which had obvious Spanish influences and rest of the collection looked very similar to it's 2009 Fall collection. I am hoping that my premonition is proven wrong.

Tuesday will begin with Armani Haute Couture collection at Espace Vendome at 11 am, followed by Givenchy at 4 pm(I hope Riccardo Tisci does more than 15 looks this time) and Chanel at 8 pm at the Grand Palais.

On Wednesday, Elie Saab will stage his show at 12:30 pm at Theatre National de Chaillot followed by Jean Paul Gaultier at 2:30 pm and 2010 Fall Haute Couture week will be closed by Valentino show at 7:30pm.

-Seph-

Update

It's been a while since my last blog entry and since I just had a breakthrough, I thought I might celebrate with picture-free, all-writing blog entry.

I've been working on different way of cutting pattern to create more elegant silhouette. The technique I tried to master only by looking at high-definition photos of fashion shows is often used to create Haute Couture garments (whether it be a dress or a jacket) in Paris. It seems that it is one of those techniques that originated in the golden age of Haute Couture by true masters, which became a part of Haute Couture heritage, history and tradition. This technique is still being used by Chanel and Dior and it is very easy to see it's affect on the garment and why it is very much preferred. Seamless shoulders creates beautiful and very feminine silhouette by mimicking the natural curve of female shoulder and it also almost entirely gets rid of unattractive creases and wrinkles around armpit area of a garment when it is being worn. Regular shoulder with its angular silhouette is also used but if feminine is what a designer is going for, seamless shoulder is the way to go.

As with most of my pattern cutting knowledge, I didn't get a chance to learn this technique and it seemed laughably simple when I first thought about attempting it. I was proven wrong. It took five days and six mock-ups for me to realise the importance of the angle of shoulder slope for this particular technique and be able to produce a pattern that works and has the desired affect.

I was ecstatic to see my final mock up, looking like a Haute Couture piece (I do realise the irony in calling my garment a Haute Couture piece after my outburst few blog entries back but I am not saying that it is a Haute Couture piece, I just felt that I was looking at one :))

I will be uploading a photo when I finish a garment with the seamless shoulder as I only have half constructed bodices with one sleeve to show at the moment.

-Seph-

Lady Gaga - Alejandro

Inspiration seems to have come from the directors editorial for W magazine last year titled 'Klein Academy'

I must say this is very unexpected. Because of Steven Klein's collaboration, I was expecting something artsy but I wan't expecting something as confusing as this. I really like the video, I love the simpler scenes with dance routines. The video looks amazing but for 'Alejandro' it would also have been appropriate to do something colourful perhaps? It feels little drained and lifeless. This video would have made more sense if it was for 'Dance in the Dark.' Still a great video though. Very stylised and chic, every frame looks like an amazing fashion photography. The fashion in this video was incredible, being the artist that she is, most of the costumes were custom made. All the military costumes and boots for the male dancers were custome made by Armani and all of the headpieces, shoes and costumes for Lady Gaga was custom made for her by various designers. Lady Gaga's costume for opening sequence is custom made Alexander McQueen but I'm not sure if it was actually made by the designer. I noticed during the funeral scene, Lady Gaga is actually wearing a dress from Alexander McQueen 2007 Spring pret-a-porter. Could it be a tribute to designer Alexander McQueen. Both Gaga and Klein collaborated closely with McQueen so it seems very fitting.

I do think when Gaga or Klein or both decided to use religious imagery the way she or he or they did in this video, it was crossing the fine line a little and it's a shame because it seems that what people are focusing on now is those few seconds instead of seeing the whole video and appreciating it. On more positive note though, people are completely blinded by the religious controversy that they are forgetting all Caucasian, Nazi-esque military dancer boys and footages of the WWII in the video, which could have (or will, at this point in time) resulted in terrifying interpretations. One other thing I noticed is that I see a lot of Steven Klein but too little of Lady Gaga, I was shocked to notice that this video does not have Great Danes which were present in all of her other videos as Lady Gaga's signature.

-Seph-

Lady Gaga - PokerFace (acoustic live) HD

I love acoustic versions of Lady Gaga's musics!!