Black Swan's influence seems to have had its affect on couture as well as recent menswear collection. Alongside Chanel, which featured ballet flats with tutu-like skirts, and Giovanna Bedin's full-on tutu extravaganza for the House of Worth, Ricardo Tisci took inspirations from late Japanese dancer Kazuo Ohno, elegant white swans taking flight and Japanese toy robots. Some models' wore Gundam-type helmets (more specifically one particular Japanese robot anime from the 80s of which the name escapes me for all those critical Japanese anime lovers out there) and most of the looks had unexpected burst of fresh colours on the back which I loved. Just like last season's couture collection, Ricardo Tisci opted for rather concise number (10 looks in total) to be presented intimately in the salon on a slowly revolving hangers (how I wish I was actually there to witness those works of art!). Although I had some objections to Ricardo Tisci's choice to abandon fashion show last season, I came to realise that a lot of the work would actually be lost in a fashion show. One particular dress took 2000 hours to cut and whooping 4000 hours to sew and a pair of pants 90 meters of plisse. There were appliques of epic proportions. These intricate details need to be appreciated closely and without being forced to stare with squinted eyes as models stomp away in a dimly lit room with thousands of light flashing from cameras. The oriental authenticity and elegance were emphasised by the choice of all Asian models, which I personally found very exciting to see.
With this collection, I felt like I was seeing the culmination of Ricardo Tisci's talent and the evolution of Givenchy. I remember when Ricardo Tisci was first appointed as the artistic director of Givenchy, his often dark gothic romanticism was criticised brutally by many of the fashion people, but now Givenchy stands in the forefront of fashion. As a person who loved Ricardo Tisci's work for Givenchy from the very begining, it was so moving to see such a beautiful, and almost celestial collection.
Full Collection in HQ
Images from www.style.com