Gareth Pugh is another British fashion maverick who graduated legendary school of Central Saint Martins in London, of which fashion legends John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, Ricardo Tisci, Stella McCartney also graduated from. His extravagant and theatric designs were met with much critical appraisals, but lack of commercial value and wearability (I mean none, zilch) meant Gareth Pugh was confined to creating his collection in his parents' garage with one dress maker for few more years after his graduation and his debut. After his debut at Paris fashion week in 2009, slow evolution of his design aesthetic has gained momentum and for past couple of seasons, his designs became more romantic and wearable but without compromisations to his signature outer space, alieness warrior feel of the looks. He surprised many with unexpected softness and secured his place in Paris fashion week.
This season, Gareth Pugh presented a show that was quintessentially him but with his new found romantic side. There were a lot of leather jackets with amazingly asymmetrical cuts, which created artistically and masterfully sculpted silhouettes, A-line cut on the square, falling away to points with natural shoulder, which created beautiful movements and draping of fine chains, which emphasised futuristic warrior women feel. Diagonal lines were also one of recurring themes in this show. I also love his simple use, or lack of rather, of colour (come to think of it, I realised that Gareth Pugh NEVER used colours other than black and white in any of his shows up until now except for dusty grey toned colours he rarely uses). I was able to focus on the details, silhouettes and design aspects of the garments. There was contrast between strong femininity and vulnerable masculinity, which I found immensely enjoyable and interesting.
This was another great show from Gareth Pugh, I think he represents new generation of fashion designers and I cannot wait to see his transformation to a fashion legend.
Full collection in HQ image